Calabria: a land of contrast

I’ve just returned from a food and wine trip to Calabria and, although we already stock several Calabrian products, this visit felt like a real eye-opener. I saw a different Calabria this time — perhaps because, rather than meeting producers one by one, I had the chance to see them all together. It gave me a much fuller sense of the region, its character, and the incredible diversity that often gets lost when you only look at it in parts.

What struck me most was the contrast — the two souls of Calabria, you might say. On one side, the outstanding; on the other, the mediocre. There didn’t seem to be much in between. I tasted some truly exceptional products and others that were instantly forgettable. It almost felt as though the middle ground had vanished — producers either aim for excellence or simply settle for “good enough.” But if, like us, you’re looking for greatness, then Calabria has plenty to offer, far beyond the well-known ’nduja or spicy sausages that usually steal the spotlight. There are olive oils with real personality, naturally made cured meats, and wines that tell a story of both struggle and pride.

When we arrived, winemakers had just finished harvesting the 2025 vintage, while olive growers were getting ready to start theirs. We were lucky — or perhaps unlucky, depending on who you ask — to have two days of rain during our stay. After such a hot and dry summer, it was a blessing for the olive trees, bringing some much-needed relief to the land. For the grapes, it came just after the harvest, so the timing was ideal. By all accounts, 2025 looks set to be a very good vintage: healthy grapes and promising wines that will reflect the warmth of the season but without excess.

Another big piece of news making the rounds was that Cirò has finally been promoted to DOCG status, becoming Calabria’s first. The announcement was met with pride and enthusiasm. For many producers, it felt like long-awaited recognition of their hard work and dedication. Cirò is, without question, one of southern Italy’s great wines — elegant, structured, and full of personality — yet it remains surprisingly unknown to most wine drinkers. It’s a paradox: a wine of history and quality that still struggles to find its place on the international stage.

That’s why, as readers of my blog already know, I don’t place too much faith in appellations alone. A label, however prestigious, doesn’t guarantee success. While we recently read about a top Pomerol producer leaving the Bordeaux appellation, Cirò winemakers couldn’t wait to achieve DOCG status. If Calabrian producers want Cirò to become truly famous, they’ll need more than a DOCG symbol on the bottle — they’ll need vision, investment, communication, and above all, consistency in quality. Consumers are no longer impressed by acronyms; they’re won over by authenticity and experience.

The new Cirò Classico DOCG joins Italy’s ever-growing list of DOCG wines — though I’d bet most wine drinkers couldn’t name even half of them. And if we look closely at the data, more than half of those DOCG appellations don’t generate higher revenues than their DOC equivalents and for some of the most famous DOCG wines, most drinkers aren’t even aware of their DOCG status. So, while the real value of an appellation remains debatable, wine consortia across Italy continue to fight passionately to have their wines elevated to a higher status. Part of it is pride, of course — the desire to see local identity recognised — but part of it is also the belief that a new title will automatically open doors. In reality, it’s often just the beginning of a much longer journey toward visibility and market credibility.

That said, Cirò Classico DOCG does come with stricter production rules: at least 90% Gaglioppo grapes, grown in the towns of Cirò and Cirò Marina, a minimum alcohol level of 13%, and an ageing requirement of 36 months, six of which must be spent in wooden barrels. These regulations aim to protect the typicity and integrity of the wine, ensuring that Cirò remains true to its origins. Among the red grapes, Gaglioppo stands as Calabria’s most noble variety — rustic yet refined, capable of producing wines of great depth and elegance — while among the whites, Greco Bianco continues to hold its place as the region’s jewel, bright and mineral-driven.

Although the new classification applies from the 2025 vintage, we’ll have to wait at least three years before we can actually taste the first Cirò Classico DOCG. Only then will we discover what this “new arrival” truly brings — whether the higher status will translate into greater recognition, or whether, as so often happens, the real difference will still be found not on the label, but in the glass, amongst the producers. Until then, lets keep drinking Ciro as we know it.

Calabria is a land of contrasts — harsh yet generous, ancient yet full of potential. What it needs now is not more bureaucracy or classifications, but a renewed sense of direction. The best producers already understand that quality and integrity are the real tools for growth. The region doesn’t need to reinvent itself; it simply needs to believe in the excellence it already has. And if this trip taught me one thing, it’s that Calabria’s future lies not in chasing recognition, but in proudly being itself — raw, authentic, and quietly extraordinary.